Travel | Scottish Highlands (2-day weekend getaway)

Hi All,

Today's post is about my two-day trip to the Scottish highlands. For the itinerary, please go straight down to the post. My old friend visited me in London, having lost touch with each other over the last 20 years or so, I planned the last-minute trip with her to go to the highlands (#mybucketlist!). Given that both of us didn't have a car, we chose the group tour (not sponsored or paid). I am not a group tour person but more of a solo traveler who meets local friends in travel destinations (thinking about mingling with total strangers while exploring a new place just adds the anxiety!, but I am trying to break the habit of being a loner and tap into humanity more!), but I heard that it is better to take the tour for the first visit to the Highlands as the one-way road in certain places might be tricky to drive around and I fully agree. I am glad that I got loads of content downloads and brain dump by the local expert on Scottish history, culture, landscape, and nature in a short period of time when I cannot go on a trip with my Scottish friends! Lastly, it was also coincidentally during the full moon harvest season called 'Han-ga-wi' in Korea (equivalent to Thanksgiving in the US/Canada), so this trip had a special meaning to me accompanied by the full moon in the sky.

*What's covered in this post

I. Why the Scottish Highlands?

II. History

III. Our itinerary - Isle of Skye

IV. Inverness

V. Transportation without driving a car

VI. In closing...

I. Why the Scottish Highlands?

My introduction to the Scottish Highlands was back in 2014 through the fantasy romantic drama TV show called Outlander (I found out during the tour that this show was the gateway to the Highlands for many Americans/Canadians!). Besides, I have always felt an indescribable connection to the Celtic culture. When I was little, I was obsessed with everything about it - its music, culture, clothing, landscape, etc. Everything looked and felt familiar, like a home to me unlike my birth country, South Korea, which I often felt so foreign to - to the point I wished I could have the red hair. I ended up having a Celtic tattoo much inspired by the movie 'Braveheart' to commemorate this deep inner connection I feel with the culture. The inner-knowingness and a bond that I still cannot fully explain since I am genetically Korean :).

First impression of the Highlands

The Scottish Highlands. Her rolling green hills, misty mountains, and serene lochs looked like they’d been lifted straight out of a fairy tale. It’s a place where every castle has a history as rich as the landscapes are beautiful. I felt like I could almost hear the echoes of ancient clans and legendary creatures as we wandered through the heather-clad moors. For me, visiting the Highlands wasn't just a trip; it was like stepping into a different world where every stone, river, and breeze has a story to tell. Magic, mystery, and the raw beauty of nature - that’s the Scottish Highlands for me! In a way, it also reminded me a lot of the Welsh Snowdonia landscape.

II. History

Similar to Hawai'i, I was struck by the profound and somber history ingrained in both the land and souls of the people of the Scottish Highlands, a sentiment deeper than I could have ever anticipated. With its dramatic landscapes and breathtaking views, the region's history is a potent mix of resilience and melancholy, echoing an intensity reminiscent of my own Korean heritage. Korea boasts a history spanning 5,000 years, yet there's a 36-year 'glitch'—a painful period of Japanese colonization in the 1930s that remains a source of national anguish. While the fierce spirit of the Korean people ultimately reclaimed our independence, those years of subjugation linger as a haunting reminder of our collective vulnerability and disgrace.

• Dark Ages to Middle Ages: In the misty past of the Dark Ages, this region was a stronghold of the Picts, a mysterious people, rich in culture and fiercely protective of their lands. However, the Highlands' history took a turn with the Vikings' invasions, bringing a period of violence and territorial conquest. In the Viking Age, around the 9th to 13th centuries, Norse settlers and warriors took control of Skye. The island's place names, with Norse origins, reflect this period of Scandinavian dominance.
• Clan System: Over the centuries, the Clan System became the heart of Highland society. Families and communities, bound by kinship, defended their territories against outsiders and each other. This led to infamous clan wars, shaping a legacy of bravery, betrayal, and bloodshed.
• The Jacobite Risings: The quest for Scottish independence reached a boiling point during the Jacobite Risings. The Battle of Culloden in 1746 was particularly devastating. It was not just a loss for the Jacobites but marked the beginning of oppressive measures by the English to suppress Highland culture.
• Cultural Suppression: The British enacted laws prohibiting traditional Highland dress and the carrying of weapons. The Gaelic language, once echoing through the valleys, was suppressed. This cultural erosion, coupled with economic challenges and forced evictions known as the Highland (Ethnic) Clearances, led to mass emigration, infusing the Highlands with a sense of loss, injustice, and displacement. Thousands of people, primarily crofters (tenant farmers), were forcibly evicted. As a way of suppressing another Jacobite rising, the English used the tactic called 'cultural assimilation' to turn the clan chiefs into landlords with status, money, and power and turn the clan members into feudal farmers subject to the landlord. During the Clearance, the farmers' homes were often burned by the landlords to prevent them from returning. The Clearances were economically motivated, with landlords seeking higher incomes by converting the land to pastoral sheep farming. In some villages, about 50-70% of population were lost. Many of those who were cleared emigrated, often involuntarily, to the coastal areas, the Scottish Lowlands, or overseas to countries like Canada, the United States, Australia, and New Zealand.  
• A Resilient Spirit: Yet, amidst this somber history, the spirit of the Highlands is undiminished. The echoing skirl of bagpipes still fills the air, ancient castles stand as sentinels of a bygone era, and traditions are preserved with pride.

III. Our itinerary - Isle of Skye

The beauty of this island has inspired moviemakers, poets, and travelers from all around the world. The Isle is renowned for its mythical landscapes believed to be inhabited by fairies.

• My favorite part of the trip was hands down Trotternish!!!: The ultimate Skye road. It’s the way to see the Quiraing, Kilt Rock, and all of Skye’s must-see sights. It is a massive landslide that runs almost the full length of the peninsula, some 30 kilometres (20 miles). The landslip contains two of Skye's most famous landmarks: the Old Man of Storr, an isolated rocky pinnacle, and the Quiraing, an area of dramatic and unusual rock formations. The summit of The Storr, on whose slopes the Old Man of Storr is located, is the highest point of the peninsula. There is a Quiraing walk (2hr course) along this spectacular landscape. It is situated in the north of Skye. The start of the walk is accessed from either of the villages of Staffin or Uig. Before driving to Trotternish, we stopped over at Uig and ran into the Uig pottery - I definitely saw a glimpse of the tranquil future I definitely want to embrace more. The tour guide Gregor noted geologically, what's happened in Scotland millenia years ago is happening in Iceland now.
• During a short stay of 30 min, I lay down on the heather-clad moors and meditated. I tried to rejuvenate myself with the help of the wind. I prayed for nature and all beings in the Universe and sought wisdom to persevere. I also promised myself that I would be back with my own family one day and do the proper exploration of the area next time with my drone so that I could share this spectacular beauty and view with more people!

• Lealt Falls: This is a scenic waterfall at the cliff edge falling onto the ocean. Trotternish is characterized by a combination of basalt lava flows on its upper layers and sedimentary rocks, including Jurassic age shales and sandstones, at its base. The contrast between these rock types contributes to the area’s striking appearance. The basalt rocks often exhibit columnar jointing, a pattern created as the lava cooled and contracted. These columns can be seen in areas like Kilt Rock, named for the pleated rock structures that resemble a kilt.

• Fairy Pools: I didn't get to see the Fairy Pools, but they are a sequence of beautiful waterfalls and pools where, according to legend, fairies bathe in the pristine, enchanted waters. The Fairy Glen, with its peculiar land formations, is said to be a playground for these mystical beings.
• Eilean Donan Castle: An iconic and gorgeous 13th-century castle that once warded off Viking invasions.

• Portree: This is a cute, colorful coastal town that’s as quaint as it is fascinating. Many people stop by here for lunch before going on their further adventures.
• Cuillin Mountains: Skye’s dominant mountain range. Enjoy views of these imposing mountains as you travel the ‘winged isle’.

• Loch Ness: This loch holds more freshwater than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. The most famous legend of the Highlands is that of Nessie, a mysterious creature said to inhabit the depths of Loch Ness. Sightings of this serpent-like beast have been reported for centuries, adding a layer of mystery and allure to this already captivating region. When I was in kindergarten, I used to watch 'world's mysteries' shows and books and Nessie was certainly one of the repeated mysteries people seemed to be fascinated by along with the bigfoot.

IV. Inverness

Inverness is a gateway to Loch Ness, where the legendary Loch Ness Monster, or "Nessie," is believed to reside. We expected a slow-moving small town that quiets early in the evening without many attractions or things to do, but we were surprised to see Starbucks opening at 6 am (even by London standard, that is early!) and many young people drinking and wandering around till midnight on a weekend. The tour guide noted it is now one of the fastest-growing cities in Europe (in terms of population), with developments in technology, healthcare, and infrastructure driving its expansion. We also met a cab driver who is working on the re-forestation project with the Scottish government after his forestry master's degree in Inverness and he said he is about to head back home, to Spain, having lived in Inverness for 5.5 years. He noted the city has changed a lot after the pandemic. It used to be the old people majority cute mid-sized town, but now there are a lot of party people coming in and the highland councils have been supporting big businesses at the expense of small local businesses...the town has changed and he was disillusioned by the government corruption and thus leaving (at least that was his pov). The city also boasts the largest arts center in Scotland, the Eden Court Theatre, hosting a variety of performances, films, and events. In fact, after the 1-day tour, we had a pleasant surprise at Inverness Cathedral - the orchestra organized by local volunteers for a charity and had an unexpected cultural enrichment with the communal celebration that seemed to unite people as one. You may find yourself a beautiful treat during your stay here, so try!

Legend: In Scotland, the touch of mystery and legend is really palpable - you feel almost as if you can touch it. So, paying attention to the local folklore and legends is another way to experience the Celtic culture. Local lore speaks of a mermaid who resided in the waters of Moray Firth. Similar to the Nordic legends, the mermaid was said to be seen combing her hair or basking on the rocks. She was a symbol of the unpredictable sea – calm and mesmerizing one moment, wild and tempestuous the next. Fishermen of the area regarded her with a mix of reverence and fear, as she was believed to have the power to whip up storms if disturbed.

V. Transportation without driving a car

• Day 1: 8:30pm night flight out to Inverness (1hr 25 min) > Bus (10B) to Inverness city center (40 min ride/contactless pay 6 pounds on the bus once on board / there is also a train to the Inverness station, but you have to walk for 17 min from the airport to the Inverness the train station whereas bus stop is right outside of the airport; alternatively, you can also grab a cab outside of the airport. It's an 18 min ride.)
• Day 2: 1-day tour from 8am to 8pm! (pick-up/drop-off in front of Inverness Cathedral) > Cab* to the airport (18 min ride, 30 pounds)
• Day 3: 7am flight back to London from Inverness (1hr 25 min). Note) We had a concert to catch in London in the evening, and that was the only reason why we came back early, but you can certainly extend your stay till later evening - and perhaps consider the two-day tour instead of one-day, but just be mindful of your Monday schedules!

VI. In closing...

Inspirations and downloads I took away from the trip:

1) Biodiversity, reforestation, and re-wilding

• One thing that surprised me was how some people perceive animals and trees — as mere 'commodities.' The adorable Scottish mascots, the hairy coos, are reduced to 'beef' in the eyes of some, and ancient, majestic trees are evaluated solely by their 'price per cubic' value. Did you know the Scottish highlands used to be covered with trees?! The current barren grass look is apparently caused by people cutting down all of the trees over the years. During the trip, on my way to Scotland, I also came across an article about a sycamore gap tree 'crime scene,' and I was captivated by both the way it was written and the accompanying photograph; it truly resembled a murder scene.
• It makes me wonder if people would treat animals and plants differently if they realized they are sentient beings, possessing their own consciousness and intelligence, capable of logical thought and communication. Perhaps, it's our human limitations that prevent us from fully comprehending them. After all, I am convinced they too have souls and emotions, much like us.

• Key resources to check out:

1. Peter Wohlleben's books  - 3 must-read among many are: (The Hidden Life of Trees) (The Inner Life of Animals) (The Secret Network of Nature) // (from Iggy the forestry master from Spain who drove us to the airport)
2. Peatland restoration // (from Iggy the forestry master from Spain who drove us to the airport)
3. Scottish Highlands - Rewilding project // (from my Scottish friend/portfolio manager colleague)

2) Listen to the Nature - water, mountains, wind, and animals.  

3) Future research topics:

• Mind and heart connection: 'Where and when did the West lose its connection with the heart?' 70% of the population in the UK are atheists and many Anglosaxon heritage people - British and Americans suffer from anxiety, depression, and feeling lost as they are spiritual human beings yet disconnected from their hearts and spirituality to sustain and propel their lives forward.
• For the longest time, I've been wondering about 'why Africa remains not rich?'  
• 'How did the West rise to power and why?'
• 'Why did the British colonization strategy succeed and not the French, Dutch, Portuguese, or Spanish ones? - What were the success factors?'